Preheat oven to 350° F. Arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet, in a single layer. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and bake for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy. Flip the bread over, halfway through baking. Once done, remove from the oven, and immediately rub the bread liberally with the three whole garlic cloves. Set aside and allow to cool.

Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and stir in the onions and minced garlic. Sauté until the onions are soft and just beginning to caramelize. Add the kale, a handful at a time, stirring until it wilts down and it's all incorporated. Throw in the chopped artichoke hearts, and season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Remove from heat and set aside.

Heat the milk in a small sauce pot until it's warmed through. Do not boil. Place a pot over medium heat. Add the butter and allow it to melt. Stir in the flour and mix, cooking for few seconds to develop a nutty flavor. Whisk in the heated milk and allow to cook, stirring constantly, until it has thickened. It should coat the back of a spoon. Season with the remaining salt and pepper, paprika and freshly grated nutmeg. Remove from heat and stir in the cheeses, reserving a bit of each to top the dip with later. Fold in the kale and artichoke.

Divide the dip into four ramekins or one large baking dish. Top with reserved cheese, and place on a baking sheet. Bake in a 375° F oven for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until bubbly and the top is golden brown and crunchy. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Serve hot with the garlic bread and/or chips and veggies. Can be made a day in advance, stored in the fridge and baked right before serving. Enjoy!